Thursday, February 12, 2009

Seeds and seeding

It is that time of the year when we start thinking about starting plants from seed. The Master Gardeners are talking about it on their listserv and I know that a number of people have mentioned the topic to me. As you know, Seedy Saturday events are usually scheduled for February.

I don't start a lot of plants from seed but I do some. My favourites to start are tomatoes.

A few years ago, a fellow Master Gardener told us that she started her tomatoes in Milk bags. She would take one of the one liter bags and cut the top off. Then she would roll down the rim (unlike Tim's rims that are rolled up) in 1 inch increments until the bag was now about 1.5 inches tall. The bottom is then cut with 3 to 4 slits so that the water will drain but the soil will not escape. The bag is then filled with soil. Into this container, you plant 3 of your favourite tomato seeds. You can put the bags under lights or in a sunny window.

Once the second set of leaves have sprouted, remove the two weakest looking plants and center the remaining one in the bag. As the tomato begins to stretch out, remove the lower leaves, roll up the rim one turn and add soil. Keep doing this until the bag is fully extended and you will have a very healthy plant with a great root ball. You know that when it comes time to plant your tomato outside you will have to harden off your tomato so I won't go into that here.

We have followed this procedure in Horticultural Therapy programs that we participate in and have grown some really interesting heritage tomatoes that have peaked the interest of residents and staff alike. Real hits include some of the black varieties (Black Plum tomato), the red and green zebra varieties and some of the smaller tomatoes like the Yellow Teardrop.

Plants should be started about 7 to 8 weeks before the last frost. We usually start ours around the middle to the end of March.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Last Nights Talk

As I mentioned some postings ago, there are many ways to enjoy gardening throughout the year and last nights talk by Sean Fox of the University of Guelph Arboretum was one of them. Sean's talk focussed on Rare Trees and Shrubs of Ontario. Sean is an excellent speaker with an incredible knowledge of the topic. He is young too - well I guess young is relative given how old you may be. Sean shared his knowledge with confidence and humour.

He introduced us to about 20 trees that while Native to Ontario, are rare. In talking about these trees, he frequently showed slides from the Ontario Tree Atlas Survey that was conducted over a 4 year period. While many of the trees that he talked about were not a surprise, there were a few that we might not have felt were rare. Three in the surprise category were the Eastern Redbud, the Tulip Tree, and the Eastern White Cedar.

Sean did take a fair amount of time talking about each of these 20 or so trees. He spoke of their characteristics, showed slides of the leaves and fruit, indicated where they were most plentiful in the Province, and why they might be rare. For example, when speaking of the Common Hoptree (a shrub or small tree), he indicated that in Ontario, it is a host for the larvae of the Giant Swallowtail butterfly and is a member of the citrus family. He also mentioned that the Tulip Tree is a wild Magnolia found in Ontario.

Sean mentioned too that the Carolinean Forest found in Southern Ontario is the most biological diverse forest area found in Canada with more tree species than anywhere else in Canada. He gave me something to follow up on.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Winter Garden

As I let the dogs out into the backyard each morning, I often think about things that I might do to make the winter garden a little more attractive.

Three or four years ago, we added a Chineses Dogwood, and last year a standard Weigela but still the garden could use more shape. Our garden is tiered with a lower second tier as you move about 30 feet out from the house. This tier runs the width of the yard and is about 8 to 10 feet deep. An interlocking brick patio runs along this lower tier from a patio area with a patio set on one side to a gate on the other that opens into a naturalised area beyond the yard. A fence and retaining wall separate the lower tier from the naturalised area.

Between houses on one side there is a chain link fence that we try to hide with tall plantings and 2 very mature Red Cedars. On the other side of the yard there is a row of quite tall Pyramidal Cedars. At one time there was a tall Linden tree but that is another story. And throughout the yard, there are plants and things that add interest such as a Weeping Spruce, a grape cart (peeking through the snow), some lights, a patio set, an arbor, and a pond. Last years Clematis still hangs on the arbor and on the large trellis above the pond and a climbing Euonymus climbs one section of the fence.

I'm thinking that another small shrub or two and perhaps a grass or two might be something to consider. One listserv that I am a member of is currently discussing the perfect grass to add to the garden. Suggestions include the Calamagrostis 'Overdam' (similar to Karl Foerster) and a number of the Miscanthus sinensis varieties. But there are so many gorgeous grasses for you to consider. Be sure you have the room for them though.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Easy care plant

This morning as I came into the kitchen for breakfast, a bloom on one of our 6 orchids had opened. It is a beautiful white orchid with purple accents.

As newbies to orchid growing, we have only Phalaenopsis to date. This variety is said to be the easiest orchid for the beginner. They thrive in moderate temperatures and low light (can do well under fluorescent lights) and should not be allowed to sit in water as they can be infected by a bacterial rot. The Phalaenopsis has long lasting blooms and if pruned properly can reward you with more blooms on the same flower spike. One source indicated that you could get as many as 30 flowers on a healthy flower spike.

The Phalaenopsis is ideal for us as we have them located in the kitchen in a north facing bay window that seemingly gets the perfect light conditions for our orchids. In the early evening, the window is lit with fluorescent lights. Temperatures are fairly constant around 20 deg C and we water sparingly. We water usually in the morning letting the water run through and drain before putting them back in the window. And our orchids have rewarded us with almost constant blooms. When a spike dies off, after a few weeks a new spike begins to appear and it isn't long before the next spike begins to produce buds. We currently have four orchids in bloom and four of them are shooting out new spikes.

If you have admired orchids ever since your first corsage or the first corsage you bought for your girl, but thought that anything that produces flowers this gorgeous must be difficult to care for, the Phalaenopsis is the orchid to try. We have had great success, particularly as it is my wife that cares for them.

On-line Renewals

We are pleased to announce that renewing a membership or joining the KHS is easier than ever. You can now do so on-line with Paypal. Just go to http://www.kitchenerhs.ca/HowToJoin.html and click the link for on-line renewals. Please note that there is a $1.00 convenience fee associated with on-line transactions to cover our additional costs.

Email us at admin@kitchenerhs.ca if you have any questions or suggestions.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Gardening activities

While you can't work with plants every day, particularly in the Winter, you can be involved in gardening activities on a daily basis. This evening is the monthly meeting of the Kitchener Master Gardeners. Roughly 25 members get together to hear one of our members give a short talk on gardening/horticulture and then we get down to planning activities.

On tonights agenda, we will be trying to make a decision on the purchase of a laptop and projection equipment that will be used for our PowerPoint demonstrations planned for Seedy Saturday 2010. We will also be planning our participation in the KW Home, Garden and Cottage Show, Canada Blooms in Toronto and the Kitchener Horticultural Society's events (Plant Exchange and Bulb Sale). We'll also most likely be talking about our annual summer trip.

We won't be getting our hands in soil and rooting about, but this is the next best thing. We have an opportunity to learn from one another and to share our passion with others. Over the years, my colleagues in the Master Gardeners have increased my knowledge of gardening and horticulture immeasureably and through my membership I have seen gardens and nurseries, listened to speakers that I might otherwise never have seen or heard.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

The Hardy Geranium


When we started this Blog, I mentioned how you can garden year round. For years now, I have overwintered the annual Geranium by taking cuttings at year end and grwoing them under lights in the basement. Another method of keeping your geraniums is to remove all of the earth from the roots in the Fall and then to hang the plant upside down in a cool place. I decided to do this for the first time this year.


In October, I took the plants out of the pots, removed the soil,trimmed of some of the branches and threw them into a box in the furnce room in preparation for hanging them up in the cold cellar. The other day as I planned for Tuesdays Horticultural Therapy session, I happened to glance in the box. In the past several months, the plants without water or soil had actually produced some leaves and even some sickly looking flowers. These geraniums are determined to survive so who am I to argue. The plants have been potted up, trimmed and placed under lights to see what will happen.


If you don't want to take cuttings or to go through the process of storing the plants in the cold cellar, you could always start some from seed. A colleague tells me that the geraniums are the most amazing plant to start from seed as every seed germinates. I couldn't believe that last year so I tried it. I took four seed packets (10 seeds to a package) and potted them up. I ended up with 40 plants to share with friends.


Geraniums are forgiving too as you can go for days without watering them. They might look a little wimpy, but they perk up almost immediately. Try them!

Trees with Winter Interest (contd)


In yesterday's piece about the Sycamore, I mentioned how much the branching in the tree reminded me of a schematic of the Internet and associated networks and then I added a picture of the bark.




The branching system of the Sycamore can be seen in the attached photo.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Trees with Winter Interest


In the next issue of the Horticultural Society's Newsletter, there will be an article focussing on Winter Interest gardening using some notes prepared by Kim Ball.

Yesterday, as I was crossing through the Parking lot at Freeport Hospital, heading toward the front door, I stopped to have a better look at a tree that has always been of interest to me - the American Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis). It is not what I might consider to be a pretty tree in the Summer, but I find it really attractive in the Winter. The tree is much too large to be considered for the average city lot, but on the Hospital grounds, it has the perfect location. It's the bark that attracts me in the Winter. The bark is patchy, peels and as it falls off it gives the tree a rather mottled look.

Yesterday however, it wasn't the bark that caught my attention so much but the branching system. It made me think of the Internet and its connected office and home networks. You'll see what I mean when I can get a picture of the tree that I was looking at. Yesterday the sun was shining but today the snow is falling and I will have to wait for another day when I can get back to take a photo.

There are many other trees and shrubs that can add to the look of your Winter garden that are much more suitable to the average City lot. An obvious choice is the Birch. While the Paper Birch can grow quite tall, there are varieties such as the Himalayan Birch or Whitebark that are much shorter. Another tree that I quite like is the Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum). And don't forget the crabapple and dogwood varieties.

Monday, February 2, 2009

Watering Plants

Do you ever have Hmmmmm moments?

As I traipse between the basement and the main floor of the house to water my plants, I'm having one. I began to think of the water I'm using. We have four types of water that are accessible in our house: hard water, soft water, reverse osmosis water and water from the furnace. Over the years, I have used all but the reverse osmosis water for plants.

What do we know? Well we know that plants require various amounts of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. That wasn't all that surprising was it. We also know that they need trace amounts of calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron and a few others. We know that excessive amounts of these and other minerals such as sodium, potassium, chlorine and fluorine are bad for plants.

We know too that really hard water contains lots of calcium and magnesium; that softening the water replaces some of the calcium and magnesium with sodium or potassium; that reverse osmosis water has some of these minerals removed; and that furnace water has sulfur which causes the water to be more acidic.

Knowing all this, what water then is best for our plants. We seem to know intuitively that rain water is best for outdoor plants. When we do a quick search of the literature, it is difficult to find someone who will say definitively which water is best but there are some additional things that we are told. Plants take up nutrients best when the water is room temperature and that the best pH is between 5.5 and 6.5.

So now what? I guess that given all of the above, the best water I have available to water the plants is the reverse osmosis water, that has been left to warm up a little, because that is effectively rain water. The next best is the hard water as I believe ours is not excessively hard. Many garden writers seem to agree with this approach. And finally, for plants that need slightly acidic water (azaleas), the furnace water might be OK.

Back to my traipsing

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Year round gardening

I frequently hear people lamenting that they can't garden year round.

For me it is quite the contrary. I find that seldom does a day pass that I am not doing something that involves gardening or horticulture. I may not be spending time in the garden but I am spending time on gardening issues whether it involves activities around the two Groups that I'm a member of (Horticultural Society or Master Gardeners) or tending to plants that are growing under lights in the basement, answering questions from colleagues and friends, reading newly received magazines, studying catalogues, planning changes to my garden (winter or summer garden), writing articles or planning horticultural therapy sessions.

This coming week for example, I have 2 horticultural therapy sessions planned and a Master Gardener meeting to attend. These three activities will require some research and planning that can be spread out over several days. There are 2 catalogues and 2 websites to check for new plants for this summer.

So if you are still lamenting the fact that Spring is still a few months off, look for related options to pursue your gardening passion.

KW Home, Garden & Cottage Show

KHS along with the Master Gardeners will have a booth at this year's show - Mar 6 to 8, 2009. Please be sure to stop by and say hello. Don't forget to take in one of our horticultural seminars. The show is at Bingemans. [more]