For the first time in my recollection, I started my pond pump on Friday. It appears that most or all of the fish in our pond have survived the winter and I was beginning to think that they might need some oxygen. The water in the upper pond was a little smelly (ammonia) given the detritus from decaying clematis and silver maple leaves. The fish seem a little happier right now but who knows for sure, they haven't told me so.
To overwinter our fish in the pond (we would bring them in each fall keeping them in 3 large aquaria - what a job!!), we heat a small area of the pond with a heater meant to keep water troughs for cattle free of ice. The hole allows gases to escape so that the fish could survive. Our pond is also 3 feet deep, the recommended depth if you plan to overwinter fish in our area.
In the near future, I'll begin repotting and dividing some of the water plants that were also left in the pond over the winter. We have some plants that I promised to share with colleagues. The folk at Sheridan's Nursery suggested last year that I add some watercress to the pond as it would help to clean the pond of toxins. In addition to the watercress I used barley pellets and other oxygenators to improve conditions in the pond. I hate to use chemicals.
I did get some green algae in the pond last year but it was relatively easy to remove.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Red Lily beetle
There were also a number of questions that came up recently both on the web and at Canada Blooms (most likely as a result of the seminar given by Gwin Brundrett, one of our Master Gardeners) about the Lily beetle that has moved into our area. Gwin suggested leaving Wasps alone as they are a natural predator of the beetle. But the suggestion that you hear most frequently, is simply to pick them off and squish them. Gwin says that they are fast little devils though and fly away if you are not fast enough.
On the Master Gardener list, there were a number of suggestions recently that centered around the use of coffee grounds. In addition to helping keep some rodents away from your flower beds, coffee grounds apparently help to reduce the lily beetle population. They also seem to protect your Hostas from slugs.
Now if you don't drink coffee yourself, you could try hitting up coffee drinking family members and friends for their grounds. I understand that at some Starbucks locations, it is possible to get some of their castoffs.
You would likely have to use a lot of coffee grounds to make an appreciable difference to the pH of your soil. In any case, coffee grounds may be something to consider in your battle with this threat to our lillies.
On the Master Gardener list, there were a number of suggestions recently that centered around the use of coffee grounds. In addition to helping keep some rodents away from your flower beds, coffee grounds apparently help to reduce the lily beetle population. They also seem to protect your Hostas from slugs.
Now if you don't drink coffee yourself, you could try hitting up coffee drinking family members and friends for their grounds. I understand that at some Starbucks locations, it is possible to get some of their castoffs.
You would likely have to use a lot of coffee grounds to make an appreciable difference to the pH of your soil. In any case, coffee grounds may be something to consider in your battle with this threat to our lillies.
Roses
The Kitchener Master Gardeners (8 of us) went to Toronto's Canada Blooms for three activities on Friday - to answer gardening questions at the "Ask the Expert" booth, to make presentations and to attend the MGOI meeting. While somewhat dissappointed in the Show itself (that's another posting at some point), answering questions at the booth was fun. The types of questions we get each year vary rather dramatically.
This year, we had several questions about what we do now to treat black spot on our Hybrid T roses given that many herbicides, fungicides and insecticides are now banned in Ontario. As someone who ripped out a bed of Hybrid T's a number of years ago because of black spot, because of aphids, and simply because of the amount of work that I had to devote to caring for these roses, I was probably the wrong person to ask. I didn't really deal with black spot in responding to the questions, rather I suggested an alternative to Hybrid T's.
There are two series of Shrub and "Climbing" Roses that were developed in Canada that are very hardy in Canada and are somewhat disease resistant. Explorer's developed in Quebec and Parkland's developed in Morden, Manitoba have shown great promise. While the flowers are primarily red, pink, and cream coloured there are a few variant colours. The important thing however is that the plants are quite are hardy and are, on the whole, disease resistant and well worth trying. I put quotation marks around "Climbing" because they are more like very tall shrubs than climbers to my way of thinking.
There are other roses to consider as well that are disease resistant but I won't get into that in this posting.
If you are still interested in Hybrid T's, know that you will be at a greater disadvantage this year with the pesticide/herbicide ban. The following comes from a University of Maine posting. "Spores can be blown, splashed or ... carried to new tissue on the plant causing infections. The fungus survives the winter on fallen leaves and at infection sites on the canes. Spores will not survive in the soil and individual spores do not survive more than one month". To protect your roses they suggest that you rake up all fallen leaves as they are the main cause of infection in the Spring. They also suggest that you remove infected canes, avoid wetting the foliage as much as possible, grow plants in a sunny location with good air circulation, use disease resistant varieties and remove infected leaves as they occur. And then come the fungicide recommendations which no longer apply here.
Hope this is of some help.
This year, we had several questions about what we do now to treat black spot on our Hybrid T roses given that many herbicides, fungicides and insecticides are now banned in Ontario. As someone who ripped out a bed of Hybrid T's a number of years ago because of black spot, because of aphids, and simply because of the amount of work that I had to devote to caring for these roses, I was probably the wrong person to ask. I didn't really deal with black spot in responding to the questions, rather I suggested an alternative to Hybrid T's.
There are two series of Shrub and "Climbing" Roses that were developed in Canada that are very hardy in Canada and are somewhat disease resistant. Explorer's developed in Quebec and Parkland's developed in Morden, Manitoba have shown great promise. While the flowers are primarily red, pink, and cream coloured there are a few variant colours. The important thing however is that the plants are quite are hardy and are, on the whole, disease resistant and well worth trying. I put quotation marks around "Climbing" because they are more like very tall shrubs than climbers to my way of thinking.
There are other roses to consider as well that are disease resistant but I won't get into that in this posting.
If you are still interested in Hybrid T's, know that you will be at a greater disadvantage this year with the pesticide/herbicide ban. The following comes from a University of Maine posting. "Spores can be blown, splashed or ... carried to new tissue on the plant causing infections. The fungus survives the winter on fallen leaves and at infection sites on the canes. Spores will not survive in the soil and individual spores do not survive more than one month". To protect your roses they suggest that you rake up all fallen leaves as they are the main cause of infection in the Spring. They also suggest that you remove infected canes, avoid wetting the foliage as much as possible, grow plants in a sunny location with good air circulation, use disease resistant varieties and remove infected leaves as they occur. And then come the fungicide recommendations which no longer apply here.
Hope this is of some help.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Early Spring
We all know thatit is important to have a good snow cover if our plants are to survive our cold Winters. Therefore it is important during warm spells like the one we are going through right now, not to be too anxious to get out in the garden and cleam up those beds. The detritus still on the beds helps to protect the plants underneath and the seasons batch of insects that birds will need to survive.
There is an interesting article in the Toronto Star that on the topic that you might like to read. You can find it at www.thestar.com/news/gta/article/604009
There is an interesting article in the Toronto Star that on the topic that you might like to read. You can find it at www.thestar.com/news/gta/article/604009
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Gardening and cooking
Yesterday as I made an Indian dish (Chicken masala) I once again thought about the number of gerdeners that I know that also have a passion for cooking. We often exchange recipes almost as frequently as we exchange gardening ideas. While at the Home, Garden and Cottage Show a couple of weekends ago, we were situated across from the lady that sells those Titanium pots - the really expensive pots - and I had a great time exchanging cooking ideas.
Anyway, after cooking the chicken, I decided to check out the spices that I used to make the dish. In addition to the ginger, garlic, onion, salt and pepper, I used spices that included corriander, cumin, cayenne pepper, turmeric and something called garam masala. We all know, I think, that the ginger comes from a rhizome, garlic and onion is from a bulb but what about the other ingredients? And can you grow them here?
The perrenial coriander produces two products that we use in cooking. The leaves are called cilantro, while the seeds and roots are used in curries. Coriander prefers a cool damp Spring followed by a hot dry Summer. If using the leaves for cilantro (not a flavour I favour) then the plants could use part shade.
The seeds are used to produce the spice cumin and the plants grow best in a well drained soil with full sun. The seeds may not ripen in colder climates so if you are going to try it in our Zone 5A, you might be advised to start the plants indoors to give the seeds a chance to ripen.
Turmeric like Ginger comes from the rhizome. Like the other herbs, it grows bst in well drained soil in full sun but it does need sufficient water.
Cayenne of course is a pepper and we all know how they grow. And Garam Masala is a mixture of several spices including cinnamon. Perhaps as an experiment, I'll try to produce a small supply of my own curry spices.
Anyway, after cooking the chicken, I decided to check out the spices that I used to make the dish. In addition to the ginger, garlic, onion, salt and pepper, I used spices that included corriander, cumin, cayenne pepper, turmeric and something called garam masala. We all know, I think, that the ginger comes from a rhizome, garlic and onion is from a bulb but what about the other ingredients? And can you grow them here?
The perrenial coriander produces two products that we use in cooking. The leaves are called cilantro, while the seeds and roots are used in curries. Coriander prefers a cool damp Spring followed by a hot dry Summer. If using the leaves for cilantro (not a flavour I favour) then the plants could use part shade.
The seeds are used to produce the spice cumin and the plants grow best in a well drained soil with full sun. The seeds may not ripen in colder climates so if you are going to try it in our Zone 5A, you might be advised to start the plants indoors to give the seeds a chance to ripen.
Turmeric like Ginger comes from the rhizome. Like the other herbs, it grows bst in well drained soil in full sun but it does need sufficient water.
Cayenne of course is a pepper and we all know how they grow. And Garam Masala is a mixture of several spices including cinnamon. Perhaps as an experiment, I'll try to produce a small supply of my own curry spices.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
article from CBC website
There is an interesting article on the CBC website that may be of interest to the avid gardener www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2009/03/10/f-vp-handler.html
Phalaenopsis
I was asked last weekend about how to care for these gorgeous orchids. We currently have six of them and while I do most of the gardening, these plants are under my wife's care. They are pretty well constantly in bloom. All of the literature says that these are amongst the easiest of the orchids to care for.
Ours are kept in a north facing bay window in the kitchen where they get little direct light, which is good given that they are said to prefer low light levels. Temperatures in the house are no more than 20 deg C thoughout the day and lower at night, conditions that again are preferred by the Phalaenopsis. Located in the kitchen, they are in an area that has a higher humidity than the rest of the house which again is preferred by these orchids. The plants are watered regularly in the morning, fertilized weakly and do not sit in water.
We never cut spikes until the spikes are truly dead. At other times, when the last flower has fallen on a spike, we prune back to the topmost node on the spike.
The orchids all came in clear plastic containers and we left them in the same containers as the roots seem to like getting some light. The plastic pots also allow water to drain quicly and unlike terra cotta pots do not accumulate hard water salts. All our orchids came in a bark potting mixture which we have maintained.
Our orchids seem to like the conditions they are kept in as they are almost always in bloom.
Ours are kept in a north facing bay window in the kitchen where they get little direct light, which is good given that they are said to prefer low light levels. Temperatures in the house are no more than 20 deg C thoughout the day and lower at night, conditions that again are preferred by the Phalaenopsis. Located in the kitchen, they are in an area that has a higher humidity than the rest of the house which again is preferred by these orchids. The plants are watered regularly in the morning, fertilized weakly and do not sit in water.
We never cut spikes until the spikes are truly dead. At other times, when the last flower has fallen on a spike, we prune back to the topmost node on the spike.
The orchids all came in clear plastic containers and we left them in the same containers as the roots seem to like getting some light. The plastic pots also allow water to drain quicly and unlike terra cotta pots do not accumulate hard water salts. All our orchids came in a bark potting mixture which we have maintained.
Our orchids seem to like the conditions they are kept in as they are almost always in bloom.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Clematis
The other day as I was looking at the Spring 2009 GardenImport catalogue, I was reminded once again of the number of types and varieties of this amazing vine. Many people when thinking of the clematis will picture the large purple flowered Jackmanii variety but there are so many more to choose from. There are some that reach heady heights while others are miniatures or vines that ramble rather than climb. There is even a yellow variety - C. tangutica. Quite a few to choose from!
We currently have 4 varieties in our garden and my favourite is the Clematis jouiniana 'Praecox'. One description I've seen of it says that it can grow to a height of 10 feet. While our trellis only goes to a height of 8 feet, I'm sure our clematis would achieve its maximum height if allowed. This variety starts to bloom in June and continues through September. It gets hundreds of small fragrant cream coloured flowers tinged with purple.
Another favourite is a C. texensis 'Dutchess of Albany'. It is described as having apple blossom pink flowers that look like miniature tulips. As much as I like the flowers, I also like the seed heads.
One of the things that you need to take note of is the Group to which your clematis belongs as each Group is pruned a little differently. There are 5 recognized Groups that need somewht different pruning treatment. And if you plan to have a couple Clematis intertwine on a trellis or fence, be sure to pick Clematis that require the same pruning treatment. There are a few that will grow in the shade but most require full sun if they are to provide the showing that we have become accustomed to.
We currently have 4 varieties in our garden and my favourite is the Clematis jouiniana 'Praecox'. One description I've seen of it says that it can grow to a height of 10 feet. While our trellis only goes to a height of 8 feet, I'm sure our clematis would achieve its maximum height if allowed. This variety starts to bloom in June and continues through September. It gets hundreds of small fragrant cream coloured flowers tinged with purple.
Another favourite is a C. texensis 'Dutchess of Albany'. It is described as having apple blossom pink flowers that look like miniature tulips. As much as I like the flowers, I also like the seed heads.
One of the things that you need to take note of is the Group to which your clematis belongs as each Group is pruned a little differently. There are 5 recognized Groups that need somewht different pruning treatment. And if you plan to have a couple Clematis intertwine on a trellis or fence, be sure to pick Clematis that require the same pruning treatment. There are a few that will grow in the shade but most require full sun if they are to provide the showing that we have become accustomed to.
Monday, March 2, 2009
comments to previous blogs
Three weeks with a cold! It just isn't right!!!
One of our members responded to the note on water. She says that during the winter she keeps two pails in her laundry room. The first she keeps full of loosely packed snow and the second she uses to drain water from the first. Then when she needs water, she takes it from the water pail which is then at room temperature. She says this process is just like adding rain water to her indoor plants which they really like.
She then went on to mention that she is about to start her tomato plants for both her home and cottage gardens. By starting them now, she feels that she gets sturdy, strong plants that produce a copious amount of tomatoes for her. When it comes time to plant them, she plants half the stem of the tomato in the ground which givers her quite a sturdy root ball.
In response to some of my questions, Marlene mentioned that she keeps the plants under grow lights in the basement. Pre-used metal shelving from a garage sale and end of season fluorescent lighting units have made it possible to start plants indoors. She mentioned using Gro lights which usually meand putting out a few more bucks for full spectrum fluorescent bulbs. You don't need to do this if you alternate cool white bulbs with warm white bulbs (one of each in a 2 bulb unit and 2 of each in a 4). This is cheaper than purchasing Gro lights, the bulbs last longer, and the units work as well as Gro lights.
She starts the tomatoes in terrarium style units, transplants as necessary, pinches them back if they get leggy, and moves them to a sunny window as needed. The pinching back is a technique that she has perfected for herself over years of study. She uses kitchen compost mostly and at the cottage she works falls (rotting apples), leaves, ashes from their fireplace and cottage kitchen waste into the garden bed. The result is always lots of tomatoes and larger than expected tomatoes, Any variety can be grown in this fashion.
One of our members responded to the note on water. She says that during the winter she keeps two pails in her laundry room. The first she keeps full of loosely packed snow and the second she uses to drain water from the first. Then when she needs water, she takes it from the water pail which is then at room temperature. She says this process is just like adding rain water to her indoor plants which they really like.
She then went on to mention that she is about to start her tomato plants for both her home and cottage gardens. By starting them now, she feels that she gets sturdy, strong plants that produce a copious amount of tomatoes for her. When it comes time to plant them, she plants half the stem of the tomato in the ground which givers her quite a sturdy root ball.
In response to some of my questions, Marlene mentioned that she keeps the plants under grow lights in the basement. Pre-used metal shelving from a garage sale and end of season fluorescent lighting units have made it possible to start plants indoors. She mentioned using Gro lights which usually meand putting out a few more bucks for full spectrum fluorescent bulbs. You don't need to do this if you alternate cool white bulbs with warm white bulbs (one of each in a 2 bulb unit and 2 of each in a 4). This is cheaper than purchasing Gro lights, the bulbs last longer, and the units work as well as Gro lights.
She starts the tomatoes in terrarium style units, transplants as necessary, pinches them back if they get leggy, and moves them to a sunny window as needed. The pinching back is a technique that she has perfected for herself over years of study. She uses kitchen compost mostly and at the cottage she works falls (rotting apples), leaves, ashes from their fireplace and cottage kitchen waste into the garden bed. The result is always lots of tomatoes and larger than expected tomatoes, Any variety can be grown in this fashion.
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